The Rain in Spain: Salamanca

Friday, November 7, 2025

From the dock at Barca D’Alva, it takes only a few minutes to reach the bridge that crosses the Agueda River into Spain. The drive to Salamanca takes1 hour and 45 minutes.

We stopped for a “comfort break” at a rustic tavern somewhere along the way. (In Alaska, we would call this type of place a “roadhouse.”) You know you are in Spain when you see lots of ham legs, called jamón, hanging from the ceiling. We got a taste of the ham and some cheese and wine.

When we reached Salamanca, we were glad to get off the bus, although it was quite cold. With a population of only 150,000 - not including thousands of students - Salamanca seems much larger because of all the grand buildings.

Inês took us to the market - the mercado - for a quick walk-through,

One fish, two fish, red fish, blue fish

Olive me

I’m just mad about saffron

Are you there Cod? It’s me, Margaret.

It was a short walk from the market to the Plaza Mayor, or Main Square. This one is said to be the finest plaza mayor in Spain. Like many buildings in Salamanca, it is built from golden sandstone.

The bull’s head over the arch is a reminder that bullfights once took place in the Plaza Mayor

The mayor of Salamanca and the architect of Plaza Mayor looking over plans for the Plaza

At Plaza Mayor we were given three hours of free time. We were given free passes to the Cathedral and the Museum of Art Nouveau, or we could wander around on our own. A shopping street was pointed out as another option. After three hours we would meet at the statue shown above for a guided walking tour. It was about this point that it started to rain - quite hard.

Inside Plaza Mayor, looking toward City Hall

One of the Camino routes passes through Plaza Mayor

Ken and I stayed in Plaza Mayor to do a little geocaching and visit a coffee shop. We didn’t fancy walking all the way to the Cathedral  in the rain, and then back to Plaza Mayor for the walking tour, and then back to the cathedral during the walking tour, so we just stayed in the Plaza Mayor area. We went to the shopping street but it was not interesting to us, so we just bought a refrigerator magnet and went back to Plaza Mayor to look for a bathroom and wait for the walking tour. It was raining this whole time.

There was a tourist information office in Plaza Mayor so I went in to ask them where I could find a bathroom. They showed me a place on a map. It was at least 8 blocks away, near the cathedral. Really? Nothing closer? Like in Plaza Mayor? 

Guess what. Most of the coffee shops in Plaza Mayor had bathrooms. Not that the tourist information office would tell you that.

The three hours of free time wouldn’t have been so bad if it hadn’t been pouring the whole time. It would have been nice if Viking had provided us with a list of things we could do indoors and a list of suggested restaurants.

The walking tour was led by a local guide who was very good.The highlights were the House of Shells, the University of Salamanca and the outside of the Cathedral.

Enclosed balconies are a frequent sight here

A church with a stork nest in the bell tower. Storks come back every year to nest here.
Yes, they are deaf, thanks to the church bells.

The House of Shells

The House of Shells was built by a wealthy nobleman in the late 15th century. The shells were a nod to his wife’s family’s coat of arms. The building now houses the public library.

Inside we can see a style of architecture only found in Salamanca

When we reached the sprawling ancient University of Salamanca (founded in 1218), we learned about some of the unusual traditions that are still followed there. For instance, when a student earns a doctorate degree, he (or she, nowadays) may write his name on the outside of a building in bull’s blood.

No, it’s not what you think. The sign says “Don’t step on the grass.” Note the unusual arches, again.

The New Cathedral was built between 1513 and 1733. Why is there an astronaut on this Baroque facade? 

Part of the original facade was damaged. When it was restored in 1992, the stonemason added an astronaut to indicate this part was carved in the 20th century. There is also a gargoyle eating an ice cream cone.

At the end of the walking tour we found Inês waiting outside a building, and our local guide left. We were told we had to wait for the other three groups from our boat to arrive before we could go inside, so we stood around for another 10 or 15 minutes, at which point, predictably, all 100+ passengers from our boat wanted to go in at the same time, sit down at the same time, eat at the same time and go to the bathroom at the same time. I see nothing wrong with letting the groups in as they arrive. It is more efficient.

After spending 45 minutes on a mediocre snack, we were led to our buses and the long ride back began. I didn’t feel as though I had seen much of Salamanca, though part of it was my choice not to walk to the cathedral and/or art museum in the pouring rain. But between the three hours of free time, the waiting, and the snack, we had spent at least four hours unproductively. 

Travel tip:

When you have a long daytrip, make sure you have a Plan B prepared in case of bad weather, a bad guide, too much free time, or whatever. Do some research before you leave home so you will know what there is to see and how to get to it. 

Upon returning to the Helgrim, we were given hot toddies. I was tired and grumpy and this small kindness cheered me right up.

Hugo’s silly Portuguese phrase today was “Não como gelados com testa,” meaning “I don’t eat ice cream with my forehead.” You would use this to say you are not stupid or naive.

Hugo also told us about a popular Portuguese sandwich called Francesinha -  it consists of thick slices of bread with pork belly or bacon, chorizo or linguiça, roast pork, medium rare beefsteak, fried egg, cheese, dark sauce, and french fries. OMG, please pass the Lipitor.

Today’s fabric is Gore-Tex. Gore-Tex is a trade name for a waterproof, breathable fabric that was invented in 1969. (However, Gore-Tex is made using a PFAS or persistent environmental contaminant, and thus is not generally used in clothing today. The company has developed a version that does not contain the harmful chemical which is marketed as Gore PFC Free or Gore DWR.) 

Photo of Gore-Tex jacket from The North Face

Shabbat Shalom!

Personal note:

I realize that my blog posts have been few and far between lately. The main reason is that I am still sick with the cold/sinus infection that hit me on October 25. I am writing this on November 22, so it’s been four weeks. I am not bed-ridden, I’m just tired, and I am often overcome with a blah feeling that keeps me from sitting down to write. When I take a 2-hour nap, there goes my blog time. Also, I haven’t had access to a desk for at least five days. Also, we have been really busy. I am not giving up. I have a lot to say.

Immersive Experiences

Thursday, November 6, 2025

Castelo Rodrigo

As we passed through two more sets of locks today, we enjoyed the peaceful, rural scenery of the Douro River Valley. The banks of the river were lined with vineyards, and cherry, olive, and almond trees. Rustic stone buildings were scattered here and there, some in ruins, and some showing signs of being occupied and cared for.

Sailing through a narrow passage

As we progressed toward our destination we were entertained by the chef with a chance to learn how to make pastéis, and another chance to taste them. I have the recipe, and I will send it to anyone who is interested. It is easier than it looks.

The pastéis demonstration was followed by a Portuguese language lesson taught by one of the tour escorts.

After lunch, we arrived in Barca D’Alva, a small Portuguese town on the edge of the Spanish border. We disembarked for our tour to Castelo Rodrigo, a medieval fortified hill town that has been home to Arabs, Christians, and Jews over the centuries. The roads were narrow and winding but our bus somehow managed to make all the turns and get us to the old gate to the town - along with two other buses from our boat and several buses from other boats. Meanwhile, the weather had become quite blustery, and it was starting to sprinkle. 

Our tour of the town wasn’t much. There was a lot of standing around in exposed areas tying to keep warm and avoid getting blown away. We walked past a crumbling castle but our guide (Inês, again) did not have much to say about the castle as we plodded up a steep road.

We stood outside a tiny church, backs to the wind, waiting while other groups went in and came back out, and I was beginning to think we would not be going in at all when Inês finally said we could go in. The church’s interior was tiny, dark, and unadorned, and Inês did not offer any commentary. 

Unlike the charming, bustling hill towns of Tuscany, this little town seemed deserted and forgotten. There are only about 50 residents.  We never saw anyone who looked like they lived there. Many of the buildings looked abandoned. We saw one small cafe and two or three gift shops clustered around the entrance. No markets or shops or any other signs of life were visible after we left the vicinity of the gate.

This tile points the way for pilgrims following one of the routes of the Camino, which runs through Castelo Rodrigo.

The cobbled streets were quite steep, and difficult to walk on due to the unevenness of the stones. We had to walk down a very steep couple of blocks to get to the former Jewish neighborhood. We were told that Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition settled here and coexisted peacefully with the Christians - until the Portuguese Inquisition was launched in 1536. (So, for 44 years?) 

We walked down “Sinagoga Street” but we were not shown the synagogue,  or the remains of one. We were told, for example, that the Jews survived by using strategies such as having small doors to their houses. This made it awkward to enter a house, so that the occupants could clobber anyone who would try to enter and arrest them. Inês showed us a face carved into a stone over a doorway. This is not something I would expect to see over the door to a Jewish house, but I am not familiar with the customs of Sephardic Jews. We were shown a carving that Inês claimed was a mezuzah. IMHO, a mezuzah would be on a door, not on a window. It would not be carved into stone, but would be attached to the doorframe. 

I find these various tales and factoids improbable. We were not given any details about how long the Jews lived here or what happened to them. I was dismayed that the real history was glossed over in favor of gimmicky and questionable anecdotes.

Sinagoga Street
The flat slabs in the center cover utilities that were installed relatively recently.

This was once the town’s cistern. A mikveh (ritual bath) was located next to it. 

Note the Moorish-style doorway on the right. That is where the mikveh was accessed.

One of the former Jewish houses, with a small door

Inês points out a gargoyle of some kind carved into the stone. It was believed to protect the house. Note the little niche on the right containing a statue of the Virgin Mary

One of the Jewish houses had this inscription over a window, that may have once been a door. Maybe this is Hebrew script, maybe it is Arabic.

This window may have once been a low doorway that was partially filled in later.

I have highlighted a carving on the windowsill that Inês claimed was a mezuzah. 

I didn’t spend a lot of time on it, but I did my own research on the internet, for what it’s worth. I found sources that suggest a different story. Jews may have lived in Castelo Rodrigo since the early 1200’s, and possibly for many centuries before that. The “cistern” is actually the remains of the synagogue. The writing above the window is Hebrew script and is a quote from one of the Psalms.

View of the valley below Castelo Rodrigo

When we returned to our boat, we were welcomed back by the senior officers, who offered us hot chocolate plus Bailey’s. That certainly hit the spot.

For dinner, the chef set out a bountiful spread  billed as “A Taste of Portugal.”  I really like being able to try a lot of the local foods, especially when they are served in a buffet format and you can taste many dishes. Most Portuguese food seems to have had very humble origins. Lots of bacalhau (dried salted cod), sardines, pork, chicken. Rice, beans. Pastries and puddings.

After dinner we shifted our focus from Portugal to Spain, which is just over the bridge from us. Some flamenco dancers came from Salamanca to perform onboard for us. They were excellent and at the end, some of us had fun dancing along with them.

Today’s fabric is the polka dot print. Polka dots appeared in the 18th century as a printing error on fabric. The unpopular fabric had to be sold at a discount and was snapped up by field workers who used the fabric to make their traditional ruffled dresses. The field workers wore the polka dots when they attended livestock fairs and gradually the polka dot pattern became popular. The livestock fairs evolved into Seville’s feria, and the ruffled dresses evolved into flamenco dresses. 

The English term “polka dots” seems to have originated in the mid-1800’s at a time when the polka dance was wildly popular in the US. In Spanish, polka dots are called “lunares.” 

Photo from visitasevilla.es