Puerto Rican Pride

March 7, 2023

We sailed in to San Juan’s beautiful harbor and docked at the edge of “Old Town.” We were booked on a walking tour of San Juan’s history, culture, and cuisine. 

Our group of 24 had a terrific guide named Sara. She was born and raised in Puerto Rico and she was both knowledgable about and proud of her heritage. History that was meaningless to me when I was in 8th grade was interesting and relevant after hearing it explained “on the ground.” Sara was careful to avoid using the term “discovery” in the context of the early arrival of Europeans. She said “first contact” or something similar. 

Prior to the arrival of Columbus, the Taino people occupied the island. Twenty years after Columbus arrived, enslaved Africans were brought to Puerto Rico. By this time, the Spanish had already commenced efforts to eradicate Taino culture.

Spain controlled Puerto Rico for 400 years, despite frequent attempts by the Portuguese, the Dutch, the French and the British. The strategic and economic value of the island was no secret. In order to defend its holdings, Spain began to fortify the island. Construction of La Fortaleza began in 1532.

La Fortaleza

Construction began on Fort San Felipe del Morro, a six-level citadel, in 1539. A lighthouse inspired by Spanish architecture sits on top.

View of Fort San Felipe del Morro from the water

View of fort and lighthouse from land

A massive wall was also built around the Old Town during this period.

View from top of wall

This is the money shot!

View of wall from the sea, with red Gate of San Juan

After losing the Spanish-American War in 1898, Spain signed the Treaty of Paris and ceded Puerto Rico, Cuba, Guam, and the Philippines to the US. It took another 54 years for Puerto Rico’s status to be settled. In 1952, it became a Commonwealth and a Constitution was adopted.

Sara was also thoughtful about finding nice shady places to stop when she wanted to talk to us. The sun is very intense here. 

Sara

After about 30 minutes we arrived at a restaurant and we transitioned to the “cuisine” portion of our tour. A bartender talked to us about rum and mojitos. A chef spoke to us about mofongo and sorullos and quesitas. Of course, we got to indulge in all of these treats. We got to help make the mofongo and we had a chance to photograph the recipes. 

For the mofongo we mashed boiled yucca using a mortar and pestle. Then we added garlicky mojo sauce and mashed some more.

A delicious chicken stew was ladled onto the mashed yucca

Quesita: Puff pastry with a cream cheese filling and guava sauce

After our authentic Puerto Rican meal, we had another hour and a half of walking to do with Sara. Here are some of the highlights.

The restored Customs House is a beauty

Boricua means “a person from Puerto Rico.” The word comes from the Taino name for the island.

City Hall

Stained glass inside City Hall lobby

I love these colorful façades

In the evening we enjoyed listening to live music by Matt Baxter, and by Topaz. But the highlight of the evening was the full moon shining on the water. It is amazing how bright and beautiful the full moon is when there is no other light competing with it.

Today’s color is mint. Yes, like a mojito.