The Ups and Downs of the Capital

May 24, 2023

On another chilly, drippy day we did a walk plus shopping in downtown Juneau. It was actually quite a fun day, despite the ever-present threat of rain. Downtown Juneau has so many interesting little nooks and crannies to explore.

It was a bit of a hike to get from our ship, out past the Ice House, to the real heart of downtown. First one must walk past a seemingly endless array of jewelry stores and tacky, made-in-China souvenir stores. Upon reaching the Alaska Fudge Company, you may take heart that you will shortly arrive at the true, year-round Juneau. Here you will be able to find businesses that cater to the folks who live and work in Juneau: a drug store, two book stores, a shoe store, a couple of dress shops, and a couple of small art galleries featuring local artists. All of this is no more than a ten-minute walk from the State Capitol building.

Downtown is very tourist-friendly, too. There is some wonderful public art and excellent wayfinding. We loved the masks and totem pole in front of the Sealaska Building (an Alaska Native corporation).

Directions, walking time in minutes, and a map color-coded to the directional signs. Topped off by a bit of formline art.

However, everything here is either uphill or downhill, so you will get a good workout.

Some of the “streets” are very steep. These streets have names, but no parking to speak of.

Looking uphill toward the bear statue and the State Capitol building

Statue of William Henry Seward in front of the State Capitol building

Totemic art in a park behind the Capitol

A park behind the Capitol offers a good view of the two cruise ships in port today

Tiny St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church

We had fish tacos at Deckhand Dave’s

We wrapped up our Juneau sojourn with shopping at Annie Kaill’s (pottery), Changing Tides (fabric), and Alaska Fudge Company (health food).

So the Capitol building is a little underwhelming when compared to other state capitols. I have seen 45 of them. I really mean underwhelming. But otherwise, Juneau is a great place for its size. It is clean, the topography is interesting, the Victorian houses are charming, the narrow winding streets of downtown have a lot of character. The Filipino food trucks near the dock and Tracy’s Crab Shack on the dock, and Deckhand Dave’s Fish Tacos remind us that Juneau is also a port town - one that is interested in food. The houses downtown are well maintained and have neat yards for the most part. The local shops are fun and funky. The diversity and artistry of Juneau’s residents are celebrated. It’s got a lot going on, as they say.

It was such a busy day that I did not see Libby Riddles, the first woman to win the Iditarod, who brought some of her sled dogs onboard Majestic Princess this afternoon. I did not have time to go to Knitters & Natters. And I did not have time to watch A Man Called Otto, which I have been wanting to see. But I enjoyed the day in Juneau very much.

We got dressed for “White & Gold Night,” which is appropriate because gold is what put Juneau on the map. (Of course it was always on the map of the Native Alaskans who lived here long before the arrival of Joe Juneau and the other miners). Then we ran off to the Captain’s Circle Party, where Captain John Foster did a credible stand-up routine telling “dad jokes.” We learned there were 245 Elite level passengers aboard, and 310 Platinum level, out of a total of about 3500. Over 2000 of the passengers were on their first Princess cruise.

Today’s color is gold.