A Walk in Jurassic Park - November 15

Waimangu Volcanic Valley

We took an “optional tour” to Waimangu Volcanic Valley. An “optional tour” is not included in the fee paid to OAT for the basic tour package - there is an additional charge. We signed up for this morning’s optional tour. So did our entire group. At the end of the day, I felt very satisfied that we received good value for the extra payment. It was a phenomenal tour. We got to go to Jurassic Park, in a manner of speaking. We got to see how the world began. We got to see unbelievable bubbling mud pools and geothermal geysers, and “smoking” steam vents.

Ken took so many photos - and videos! I can’t begin to show all of them, or even half of them. But I will try to show a few as I tell the story of this one-of-a-kind day.

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We were dropped off at a small lodge in a lush jungle. Our guide, John, met our bus and introduced us to Waimangu Volcanic Valley. He took us to an overlook just past the edge of the parking lot where a stunning panorama suddenly came into view. A valley. A lake. Steam rising from a multitude of vents and from the surface of the lake. Giant fern trees. 

Our first sight of the valley

John

Then, John invoked Aerosmith and Run DMC, and he said “Walk this way . . .” 

And we followed him down a trail toward that fuming hellscape.

We stopped periodically at overlooks, and each time John explained a bit of the history of this valley. Before 1886, the valley was known for hot springs and pink and white terraces, created by mineral deposits accumulating over centuries. People came to the valley to marvel at the terraces, and some would even bathe in the hot springs.

On the far side of the valley a destructive giant lay sleeping. In 1886, Mount Tarawera erupted with an unimaginable ferocity. Mud and ash shot up, and then poured down. The valley was buried. The famous pink and white terraces were buried. Seven small Maori villages were buried. 105 people lost their lives. An area of about 15,000 square Km was covered with mud up to 40 meters deep.

When we reached the shore of Frying Pan Lake, we could smell the strong sulphuric vapors. John told us the waters and surrounding muds could be scalding hot and were dangerously acidic. There was a dead zone around the lake where nothing grew.

Steam rises from vents and from the surface of the lake

Discoloration from algae

Minerals and strange algae discolor the water near the shore

Here are three very short, fun videos (6, 8, and 10 seconds) of some of the crazy geothermal activity.

We hiked to nearby Lake Rotomahana, where the water was not so dangerous. On the way, we passed bubbling mud and squirting geysers. At Lake Rotomahana we took a 45-minute cruise around the lake to get a close look at various points of interest that could not be reached by land. There were quite a few black swans here, but also geysers and steam vents. John Piloted the boat.

Black swans and cygnets

A geyser

Then we were driven back up to the lodge on a bus, driven by John. Our lunch was waiting for us at the cafe at the lodge. John helped serve it. John helped clean up. Wow. He was a terrific guide, and all these other things, too.

Waiotapu Mud Pools

On the way back, we stopped at a place called Waiotapu Mud Pools. It was so interesting. It was hard to tear yourself away.

Rotorua Walk

Later, Gavin led us on a walk through the center of Roturua. At this point I should mention that there are steam vents and other seismic oddities all over the city. The smell of sulfur is quite pervasive, depending on the wind. 

Rotorua has clearly declined, but it has some lovely buildings and parks downtown. Our hotel, the Distinction Rotorua, was not much. I don’t think there are any nice or new hotels in Rotorua. The city was used as a national quarantine center when Covid struck New Zealand. After the pandemic, some of the vacant hotels were used to house homeless people. I don’t know whether that is what kept the hotels going, or whether it contributed to the sad decline of a city that was once famous for its spas and resorts.

The Klamath Falls Rose Garden connects Rotorua to its Sister City in Oregon

This stately building was once the Rotorua Museum. It is now being restored but its future purpose is uncertain.

A pleasant boardwalk defines the waterfront

More black swans

Home-hosted Dinner

As wonderful as the Waimangu Valley was, the most awesome part of our day lay ahead. One of the special things that happens on an OAT tour is the chance to attend a home-hosted dinner. We were told that usually the tour members are split up and sent to different homes in twos or fours. The tour leader never participates. It is our chance to interact with the hosts. This time, however, the hosts wanted all 16 of us to come to one family’s home. 

We appreciated the opportunity to experience Maori hospitality in a family’s home. We did not feel comfortable taking photos, or even asking for permission to do so, so you will not see any photos here.

I wasn’t sure what to expect. Who would have enough space for 16 of us? What would a Maori home be like?

The answer to the second question is that it was just like a typical Anchorage home. It was in a nice neighborhood. It was modern and comfortable inside. The answer to the first question is a couple in their late 30’s named Aroha and Darrin. They have three daughters. Aroha is a health and PE teacher at a Maori immersion school in Rotorua. Aroha was recruited to play D1 basketball in the US and she is grateful for the opportunities that flowed from that experience. Darrin drove a logging truck for many years, but quit that job two weeks ago because of the terrible hours, which were not good for his family life. He just got a new job as a teacher’s aide at a high school, where he also hopes to be a role model for boys. 

They speak Maori at home, but the children learn Maori and English at school. I don’t think Aroha and Darrin grew up speaking Maori at home, so this must be a challenge for them. Someone asked them about their tattoos. They both have tattoos that illustrate their lineage, but neither of them had facial tattoos. The family has home-hosted dinners two or three times per week!

We had a typical dinner of barbecued chicken, lamb burgers, sausages, kumara (sweet potato), cole slaw, and green salad. For dessert we had Hokey Pokey ice cream and pavlova.

After dinner, Aroha and Darrin sang a couple of Maori songs for us, and then performed an awesome haka. Then they showed us a video of students from Aroha’s school performing in a haka competition. We also had time to talk about the challenges facing the Maori community. Much of it sounded very similar to the kinds of things we hear about in Alaska.

Everyone in our group was completely blown away by this experience. This family is so full of passion and energy. Wonderful Maori hospitality!

Today’s fabric is Roar - Dinosaur Volcano (Cream), by Dashwood Studio.