The Poet’s House

Saturday, November 22, 2025

A short train ride brought us to Sevilla. Our hotel was in the former Jewish Quarter, Barrio Santa Cruz, and was not accessible by automobile. We asked the hotel to arrange two taxis for us. It was a little pricey, but the drivers knew exactly where to park, then they took our luggage and led us through a labyrinth of narrow cobblestone alleys to our hotel. This would not have been so easy with a random taxi from the train station.

Our hotel was Casa del Poeta. It was our favorite hotel of the trip. Most beautiful property, unbeatable location, wonderful staff, great breakfasts. It was an old mansion that has been converted into a timeless boutique hotel. There are 17 rooms surrounding a patio that is open to the sky. It was on the chilly side today, and I felt sorry for the staff who were bundled up in wool coats behind the desk, which was covered, but essentially outdoors in the patio. 

We stashed our bags and went out to get some lunch before our 2:00 pm tour. Luckily, we were just around the corner from Bar Las Teresas. This was one of our favorite places on previous visits, and it quickly became a favorite for Scott and Keisha, too. It is a tiny, old, traditional, family-run tapasbar at the intersection of three pedestrian streets. There are tables outside as well as inside. People seem to favor the outside tables no matter the weather. Dozens of ham hocks hang from the ceiling. They also have a huge wheel of Manchego cheese behind the bar. Three or four waiters/bartenders rush around in a frenzy pouring drinks and slicing ham. On one wall hangs a board displaying a series of odd-looking knives. Upon closer inspection we discovered that the knives are actual knives from the bar that have been worn down to almost nothing after constant use and sharpening. They seem to retire a knife approximately every three years.

Photo from lasteresas.es

Photo from lasteresas.es

Photo from lasteresas.es

Photo from lasteresas.es

We were lucky enough to get four seats at the bar, because it was a bit early for Spaniards to eat lunch. In other words, it was 12:45 pm. However, they do appear to have two auxiliary dining room spaces across the way - usually full. But sitting at the bar is so much more interesting in this lively, borderline chaotic, unpretentious establishment. This is as Spanish as it gets, IMHO.

Upon returning to the hotel, we discovered that our guide, Mercedes, had arrived a little bit early. She provided us with a fantastic tour as we walked and walked and walked around central Sevilla. Mercedes was extremely knowledgable and we gained a lot of insight into the history and culture of Sevilla. She also made a number of helpful suggestions about things we might want to do over the next few days.

Here are some of the highlights. I was particularly interested in the prevalence here of Mudejar architecture - a mash-up of moorish and Renaissance styles that became popular after the Reconquista.

Bodego Santa Cruz - VERY popular among Millenials, usually overflowing onto the street

The Giralda - the bell tower of the Sevilla Cathedral. It was completed in 1198 CE to serve as the minaret for the Great Mosque of Sevilla. The Mosque was located where the Cathedral now stands. A law in Seville dictates that no structure may be higher than the Giralda.

Street behind the Cathedral

It’s Saturday and the street scene is so lively here.

The Metropol Parasol (a/k/a Setas de Sevilla, or The Mushrooms) is an attention grabber

The Alcazar

Torre del Oro

This skyscraper is taller than the Giralda, but is outside the city limits. It is the only skyscraper that has been built here. People dislike it.

Our last stop with Mercedes was the breathtaking Plaza de España, built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. Photos really can’t do it justice. Tiled alcoves for each province of Spain form a grand semi-circle.

It was a two-jacket day

Dinner was at El Pasaje Santa Maria La Blanca. We really enjoyed it.

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Croquettes

Soup

After dinner we returned to the plaza by the Cathedral to see the Giralda at night.

Today’s fabric is the Manila shawl. It is a large square, usually silk, with embroidered chinoiserie, and edged with fringe, which is often knotted. The shawl is folded in half diagonally to make a triangle, and worn over the shoulders. The Manila shawl is very popular in Andalusia, especially during the April Fair (Feria de Abril) in Sevilla. A mantoncillo is a smaller version of the shawl (mantón).

The Manila shawl originated in the Philippines as part of the traditional clothing worn by women. However, the silk fabric and embroidery work mostly came to the Philippines from China. During the colonial period, the shawls were exported to Spain, and a fringe or lace border was added - a decorative feature that can be traced back to the Moors. The shawls are now associated with flamenco dancers and Gitanas (Iberian gypsy women). Manila shawls are also frequently used to decorate sofas and pianos in Spain. It remains an essential part of Andalusian culture.

If you are in the market for a Manila shawl, come to Sevilla.