Wat and Balance

Saturday, October 19, 2024

Ko Samui is an island of about 70,000 off the east coast of Thailand. Its beautiful beaches make it a tourist destination. It also offers some cultural attractions. We joined some geocaching friends, Queenie and Bob, on an outing to visit some Buddhist temples known as wats (singular: wat).

We got a taxi to take us to the north side of the island, wait for us while we visited two temples, and bring us back to the ship. It took about 40 minutes to get to our first stop. 

Going on your own is much less expensive than taking a tour booked through the ship, but you don’t always understand what you are seeing. There was minimal signage in English. There was a chaotic feel to much of our experience. There were artifacts everywhere, but in such a chaotic jumble that you didn’t know where to look first, and you weren’t always sure what you were looking at. However, everything was stunning - the size, the colors, the imagery, the richness, the artistry.

However, being on our own gave us a chance to wander about wherever we liked, and we managed to grab a few geocaches, too.

Wat Phra Yai

Also known as Big Buddha Temple, Wat Phra Yai was located on a tiny island reached via causeway from Ko Samui. 

The turnoff to Wat Phra Yai - Look at the wires on the telephone poles!

Two fierce-looking guardians stood watch near the entrance to Wat Phra Yai. There were all sorts of offerings at their feet. I’d really like to know more about the little china figures at their feet. They look like they have been there for quite some time. Some of the figures appear to be soldiers.

The dress code for the wat? In case you need a shirt, you can buy one beside the green guardian.

We decisively continued towards the wat. A multitude of  colorful shrines or temples almost blocked the access to Big Buddha. You can see Big Buddha and his Wheel of Enlightenment (Dharmachakra) in the background.

Shrines on the left

Temples on the right

Seven-headed snakes on both sides of the stairs

Following the actions of many of the other visitors, we decisively removed our shoes before starting up these stairs.

Big Buddha, built in 1972, is 39 feet high. The statue is seated in the lotus position, symbolizing enlightenment. If a Buddha’s hands are touching, that also symbolizes enlightenment. It seems that every color, every position, every object and person nearby symbolizes something. 

A reclining Buddha usually represents Buddha in his final illness, about to enter Parinirvana, which is a concept that I don’t understand well enough to explain.

A reclining Buddha and a sign that I did not find enlightening

A three-headed elephant?

Upon reaching the top, I was just as confused as I was below. There were no helpful signs. What is the dragon-like thing behind Buddha’s head? Is it a boat or an animal?  What is the thing that looks like a fancy perfume bottle? Why are his ears so long? What is the reason for making Buddha statues so large? Does the size say more about Buddha, or about the person (group?) who made (or paid for) the statue? And please, explain why there is a monkey praying to Buddha. Do the Thais think monkeys can pray and can understand religion?

Don’t think I am being flippant. I am curious. This is all so far out of my regular experience that I am completely mystified. The more I look, the more I see things that I don’t understand. Yet these Buddhist temples have deep significance for millions of people.

A monkey appears to be praying to a seated Buddha

Wat Plai Laem

Wat Plai Laem is located on a platform pavilion surrounded by a lake. It is a modern Buddhist temple.The design of the temple incorporates elements of Chinese and Thai traditions. The main statue, which is in Chinese style, is a form of the Bodhisattva of compassion and mercy. In Chinese this deity is known as Guanyin. (In Japan, this deity is called Kannon). Guanyin, the goddess of mercy and compassion, is often depicted as a female, with 18 arms, sitting atop a dragon, as at Wat Plai Laem. (Thank you, Wikipedia.)

I love the roof lines of this building

As we walked out onto the floating platform, it felt like we were walking around a marina. A beautiful structure with two more guardians, dominated the entrance. Off to the side was a fat, happy Chinese-style Buddha.

Straight ahead was Guanyin, with her 18 arms. Guanyin may be depicted holding some of the following symbolic items: a vase of pure water, a willow branch, a fly whisk, a lotus bloom, rice sheaves, and a basket. This wat was such a counterpoint to the Big Buddha temple. I would even say the two balance each other and were intentionally place near each other for that reason.

Close-up of the small Guanjin

Why all the roosters?

We saw this near the port. I wonder if it depicts a story that is well-known in this region.

Roosters, wires, light poles, telephone poles - it’s always interesting to “look up”

Today’s fabric is Thai-style elephant print cotton. This fabric is ubiquitous in this part of the world. Cotton is the best fabric to wear in a hot climate such as Thailand’s. The elephant print is extremely popular here, especially for loose-fitting pants and long skirts. Black and indigo seem to be the most common colors, but the elephant prints can be seen in all colors. By the way, there is an elephant sanctuary on Ko Samui.